NYC — Autumn 2012: Babbo

The girls and I arrived in New York City last Friday evening and made it just in time to stop by our hotel to freshen up before rushing to make our 8:15 reservation at Babbo. Apparently, it's hard even for New Yorkers to get reservations there, so I'm not sure how we did for a Friday night, especially given that we made them only a few days beforehand. Maybe because it was the long weekend and New Yorkers were out vacationing in the Hamptons? It was still ridiculously packed in the restaurant and we ended up having to wait 20 minutes even with the reservation, which I've come to learn is standard in Manhattan. But once we were seated, we all decided to get the traditional tasting menu, which is eight courses for $75:

Amuse-bouche: Crostini with olive oil and marinated chickpeas

Coppa with Cipolline Modenesi and Pecorino

I thought the amuse-bouche could have been a little more creative or exciting. I mean, I think even I could make that at home. But it's compliments of the chef, and an amuse-bouche is really only to serve as an appetizer to the appetizer, so I can't really complain. It was annoying when the chickpeas kept falling off the bread, though... The tasting menu officially started with cured pork shoulder with spicy caramelized onions and pecorino cheese. You know, despite the intense flavours of all three ingredients, they somehow worked together to create a well-balanced dish. I can see how some people may not enjoy such strong flavours in one single dish, but the spicy-sweet flavour of the onions played off the smoky, salty flavour of the pork really well. I think all three of us really liked this course.

Pappardelle with Chanterelles and Thyme

Duck Tortelli with "Sugo Finto"

I think the pappardelle was my favourite dish of the evening. Fresh, handmade ribbons of pasta, cooked perfectly al dente, coated in just enough melted butter with shallots and garlic, complimented with flavourful chanterelle mushrooms and bright thyme. I love that I could taste every individual ingredient; clean, simple, fresh, and very, very addictive. I seriously could've eaten an entire bowl of the stuff. The duck-stuffed pasta was also really good, each tortelli freshly made and carefully folded, and then stuffed with a smooth, creamy blend of duck confit and gizzard. It made for a very flavourful dish, along with the "sugo finto," which is a meat-infused tomato-based sauce. The brighter flavour of the sauce complimented the gamier flavour of the duck quite well. It's a rather rich dish, so I thought the portion was just perfect.

Grilled Guinea Hen with Sweet Corn Fregula and Black Truffle Vinaigrette

The main dish of the evening was the grilled guinea hen. Oh, god, the most soft, tender, juicy white meat I have ever eaten. The perfect ratio of meat to fat to skin. And there were actual slices of black truffle on top! I expected just the vinaigrette to be flavoured with black truffle, but no, there were actual pieces of the stuff in it. So decadent. And the meat was complimented with a mix of tiny fregula pasta, which is prepared like risotto, and sweet corn to give it brightness and texture. I thought this dish was beautifully executed and fitting for the main course of their tasting menu.

Coach Farm's Finest Goat Cheese with Fennel Honey

"Fico Ripieno" with Pistachios and Rose Mascarpone

Not a huge fan of goat cheese, at least by itself, but I like the concept of a cheese plate as a part of dessert. The honey really helped temper the sharp tang of the cheese, which is the only reason that I even finished the course (that, and I hate wasting food). I could've done without the cheese course, but it's very common in European meals and I can see many people thoroughly enjoying it. It's just not my cup of tea. The "fico ripieno," or ripe fig, on the other hand, was positively delightful. Soft and tender, filled with pistachio mousse and ground pistachios, and paired with airy whipped mascarpone cream that had just a touch of rose. Light and sweet, nutty and slightly floral. Simple, but beautifully executed.

"Cuccia alla Siciliana"

I asked the waitress what this was because there is no explanation or translation on their menu. I couldn't even guess what it was. I remember she explained it to me in detail, but all I remember is her saying something about wheat berries in sweet ricotta cream (with orange zest, maybe?). The texture reminds me of rice pudding and oatmeal in one, perhaps creamier. I'm pretty sure this is meant to be a palate cleanser of sorts rather than a full course, but I could've done without it. Nothing special and not particularly great.

Warm Blueberry Crostata with Sweet Corn Gelato

Olive Oil Cake with Olive Oil Gelato

Chocolate Hazelnut Cake with Hazelnut Gelato

The last course was overwhelming, to say the least. Since there were three of us, we got three different desserts, which we shared. Of course, by this time, we were so full that I felt like I would burst out of my leggings. (Leggings! The exact ones I bring to buffets because they stretch!) I think we managed to finish half of each one. My favourite of the three was the olive oil cake. It's like a lighter version of a pound cake, but denser than an angel food cake. A hint of lemon, paired with a creamy olive oil gelato. Simple flavours, not too heavy, and not too sweet. The blueberry crostata was also lovely, with the fresh, tart blueberries and blackberries on top and the buttery, flaky crust holding it all together. But it was the sweet corn gelato that had us all surprised. Because it tasted exactly like sweet corn. But it was cold! And creamy! It's probably not something I'd ever order on its own, but... it's mind-boggling. Lastly, the chocolate cake was decent, but rather boring. Chocolate lovers will enjoy it, but those wanting to try something new and unique will want to get something else. I didn't find it to be particularly special. Just chocolatey.

Almond meringue cookies, chocolate meringue cookies, and biscotti

And just when we thought dinner was done (seriously, we were all hunched over with food babies by this point and were relieved that we made it through all eight courses), we got a plate of mini cookies and biscotti, compliments of the house. This pretty much sent us over the edge. I think we may very well have thrown up if we ate even one bite more. In fact, we were so full that we needed not one, not two, but three cigarettes after the meal. And then walked for 20 minutes because we felt so fat and bloated. And by "walked," I really mean "waddled." Despite all of that, the meal was absolutely fantastic and I don't regret trying it at all. Lovers of Italian food should definitely check out Mario Batali's take on it at Babbo. And if you're going to get the traditional tasting menu, prepare your stomaches, 'cause it's a serious marathon. But ultimately, it was an amazing start to our New York foodie trip.

Babbo

110 Waverly Place

New York, NY 10011

(212) 777-0303